My legs are screaming and my back is aching from the weight of my heavy pack as I clamber up the steep, rocky track to the saddle between Mt Orion and Mt Sirius, in Tasmania’s remote Western Arthur Range. Finally, Lake Oberon comes into view. Impossibly beautiful, this mist-shrouded body of water hangs weightlessly between the mountains, as though it’s floating in the sky. Upon seeing it the feelings of foreboding I’ve experienced since ascending into the range from the Arthur Plains below immediately give way to a complete sense of calm as we could see the grey, rugged peaks of the Western Arthurs stretching out to the horizon, and the high tarns glistened like jewels.