A superb gold archaeological revival fringe necklace, made in France and dating from the 1940’s.

The necklace is crafted with 30 grams of rich, rosy 18K gold and decorated with a continuous row of amphora-shaped drops. The design is inspired by the archaeological revival movement, pioneered by firms like Castellani and further popularised by jewellers like Carlo Guilano and Eugene Fontenay. One of the most widely used motifs in ancient archeological jewellery was the amphora; a container/vessel that was used to store and or transport oil, water, perfume and grain. The pointed bottom on certain amphoras was a way of storing it upright, as the bottom would go into the sand.

The archaeological jewellery revival style was influenced by the fascination with classical arts that swept Europe in the mid-19th century; stemming from important archaeological discoveries in Italy and Greece. These newly discovered ancient Greek, Roman and Etruscan gold jewels were exhibited across Europe, which inspired jewellers of the period to recreate these highly sought after designs, incorporating traditional styles and techniques of ancient civilisations.

The current necklace glows beautifully and is particularly alluring when worn, sitting flat across the neck. The box clasp is cleverly concealed within the continuous design. A related example, albeit slightly earlier, can be found in the British Museum (Museum number: 1978,1002.1120)

In 1861, jewels from the famous ‘Campana Collection’, one of the nineteenth century's greatest assemblages of Greek and Roman antiquities acquired by Napoleon III for the French nation, were exhibited at the Louvre Museum. Referred to as Italian Archaeological Jewelry they became a source of inspiration for some of the nations top jewellers. However unlike Italian examples, which often recreated the ancient designs as accurately as possible, French revival jewellery did not seem to be derived directly the ancient prototypes. The free interpretation of ancient sources is characteristic of the French taste in 'archaeological-style' jewellery. An explanation may perhaps be found in the existence of pattern-books by important designers which seem to have provided the basis for the design of much French jewellery, as opposed to the originals themselves.

The necklace has a length of 40.5cm and amphora link measures 1.2cm x 0.5cm. It weighs an impressive 30 grams of 18K gold. The tongue of the clasp is stamped with a variety of French gold hallmarks including a makers mark (possibly GS).